To my blog readers: First and foremost, I would like to apologize for the boring and elementary style of my last blog. Let it be known that I am tired and somewhat delirious (I was giggling for no reason a while ago)! It is very likely that I will not be able to complete sentences properly or even use big words. Hopefully as time goes on this will evolve into a more exciting piece of "literature". Now then, on with the blog:::
First I will catch you up with the events that transpired yesterday after arriving:
Dave helped us load our luggage and equipment into the extended cab beat up pickup that was caked in mud. We met Alice, a very nice native who works at the station as well. We all got in and drove to the research station to drop our luggage off up a road along the coast. The entire ocean as far as the eye can see is covered in ice. Everything here is totally flat, with the exception of pressure ridges formed by the ice on the water.
Every now and again along the coast we saw boats perched upon platforms. The natives make them out of wood and cover them with seal skin and seal oil. Each boat is manned by a crew of about 10 people or more, and they are used for a special purpose, whaling. Some of the boats had a colorful flag proudly displayed from a pole, indicating a victorious and fruitful journey. As we continued down the muddy road, the town looked gloomy and sullen. Peoples homes were surrounded by old scrap metal, vehicles and some even had dead geese hanging from the porches. The homes are simply designed, square with windows and covered in siding. Dave was smiling when he pointed out the liquid waste area and dump on the way to the station. "It looks bad, but its not that bad...you'll see" he said.
We pulled up to the station to find a small building that said "dormitory style" on it. It wasn't impressive, but I was happy to see it and I didn't care how much I had to rough it. Alice asked us to come in and fill out pape
r work before we went to our rooms so that she could go. We walked into the reasearch station and proceeded down a long hall that was covered in pictures of scientists and posters about ongoing research. My stomach fluttered at the thought of working in the field and doing some scientific work.
We went into Alice's office tired and exhasted, but I was revived by what I heard on the radio. It was an Inupiat man saying a prayer, "God thank you for the blessing you gave us, we will return it....thank you for sending us all back safely..." then he said many words in their native tongue, of which I only understood that they were powerful important words. Then many people on the radio were cheering. It is whaling season, a very special and precious time to the people here. The whales are sacred to them, and they have survived for ages eating whale and seal. Only the Inupiat people are allowed to hunt them, and they are not allowed to sell any of their catch, so it is distributed among the community. It is an honor if you are able to help them tow it in. Alice told us that they caught two bow whales. They weigh about a ton per foot! She said they were distributing the whale at a local's home, and that we should go. I was tingling with excitment and rushed to my room to throw my stuff in.
After we all got in our rooms and had the luggage unloaded, we packed back into the truck and drove to town. We arrived a small two story house, and the road was packed with cars. We walked up to the garage where there was a pile of dead geese, and a huge piece of baleen covered in tough hair. The air smelled like fish. We were warmly greeted by several Inupiat people. "Welcome to Barrow, please come in, we're glad you are here at this special time" We were guided into the garage and there was a line of people. One woman told us how to eat the cooked epidermis and blubber, apparantly it is to your liking; you can use lea and perrins or whatever you like to season it. An old Inupiat woman handed me a bag with pieces of whale in it, an I proceeded down the chow line. A young boy handed me a glass filled with a sweet smelling drink. "What is it made of?" I asked. He looked annoyed, "I don't know, I just drink it," and then he smiled at me. I laughed and drank some, it was delicious and tasted like spiced pear. I looked in my bag and also saw a homemade doughnut and other assorted whale parts like the intestine and what not. After that, we went to eat at a Mexican restaurant of all places!
The place is called Pepe's, and the logo contained an igloo with a Burro tied to the outside of it. I ordered prime rib since I didn't know how the food was, and I will have a whole three months to try it out. After eating, my eyelids grew heavy, but we all decided to check out the gravel pits and Point Barrow. We walked back to the truck and headed out to the end of the town.
We jumped out of the truck and were struck by bitter cold and white. There were a couple of dumpsters, one said "Blubber and Carcasses ONLY" on it. We noticed some bones and baleen strewn across the ice-covered shoreline. The area we went to is at the very end of the town and is a strip of land extending into the sea, called Point Barrow. This area is where the most bears are spotted. We hacked around a bit and encountered two native women who were speeding down the road in their pickup. They said they drove the road everyday for entertainment and welcomed us to Barrow. We stick out like sore thumbs here, and everyone knows you are a tourist or scientist, but they are all nice. We went back to the hotel at about 10:00. I was in shock, it was so bright outside, it felt like 11:00 am! Anyway, I took a hot bath and went to bed.
First I will catch you up with the events that transpired yesterday after arriving:
Dave helped us load our luggage and equipment into the extended cab beat up pickup that was caked in mud. We met Alice, a very nice native who works at the station as well. We all got in and drove to the research station to drop our luggage off up a road along the coast. The entire ocean as far as the eye can see is covered in ice. Everything here is totally flat, with the exception of pressure ridges formed by the ice on the water.
Every now and again along the coast we saw boats perched upon platforms. The natives make them out of wood and cover them with seal skin and seal oil. Each boat is manned by a crew of about 10 people or more, and they are used for a special purpose, whaling. Some of the boats had a colorful flag proudly displayed from a pole, indicating a victorious and fruitful journey. As we continued down the muddy road, the town looked gloomy and sullen. Peoples homes were surrounded by old scrap metal, vehicles and some even had dead geese hanging from the porches. The homes are simply designed, square with windows and covered in siding. Dave was smiling when he pointed out the liquid waste area and dump on the way to the station. "It looks bad, but its not that bad...you'll see" he said.
We pulled up to the station to find a small building that said "dormitory style" on it. It wasn't impressive, but I was happy to see it and I didn't care how much I had to rough it. Alice asked us to come in and fill out pape
r work before we went to our rooms so that she could go. We walked into the reasearch station and proceeded down a long hall that was covered in pictures of scientists and posters about ongoing research. My stomach fluttered at the thought of working in the field and doing some scientific work.We went into Alice's office tired and exhasted, but I was revived by what I heard on the radio. It was an Inupiat man saying a prayer, "God thank you for the blessing you gave us, we will return it....thank you for sending us all back safely..." then he said many words in their native tongue, of which I only understood that they were powerful important words. Then many people on the radio were cheering. It is whaling season, a very special and precious time to the people here. The whales are sacred to them, and they have survived for ages eating whale and seal. Only the Inupiat people are allowed to hunt them, and they are not allowed to sell any of their catch, so it is distributed among the community. It is an honor if you are able to help them tow it in. Alice told us that they caught two bow whales. They weigh about a ton per foot! She said they were distributing the whale at a local's home, and that we should go. I was tingling with excitment and rushed to my room to throw my stuff in.
After we all got in our rooms and had the luggage unloaded, we packed back into the truck and drove to town. We arrived a small two story house, and the road was packed with cars. We walked up to the garage where there was a pile of dead geese, and a huge piece of baleen covered in tough hair. The air smelled like fish. We were warmly greeted by several Inupiat people. "Welcome to Barrow, please come in, we're glad you are here at this special time" We were guided into the garage and there was a line of people. One woman told us how to eat the cooked epidermis and blubber, apparantly it is to your liking; you can use lea and perrins or whatever you like to season it. An old Inupiat woman handed me a bag with pieces of whale in it, an I proceeded down the chow line. A young boy handed me a glass filled with a sweet smelling drink. "What is it made of?" I asked. He looked annoyed, "I don't know, I just drink it," and then he smiled at me. I laughed and drank some, it was delicious and tasted like spiced pear. I looked in my bag and also saw a homemade doughnut and other assorted whale parts like the intestine and what not. After that, we went to eat at a Mexican restaurant of all places!
The place is called Pepe's, and the logo contained an igloo with a Burro tied to the outside of it. I ordered prime rib since I didn't know how the food was, and I will have a whole three months to try it out. After eating, my eyelids grew heavy, but we all decided to check out the gravel pits and Point Barrow. We walked back to the truck and headed out to the end of the town.
We jumped out of the truck and were struck by bitter cold and white. There were a couple of dumpsters, one said "Blubber and Carcasses ONLY" on it. We noticed some bones and baleen strewn across the ice-covered shoreline. The area we went to is at the very end of the town and is a strip of land extending into the sea, called Point Barrow. This area is where the most bears are spotted. We hacked around a bit and encountered two native women who were speeding down the road in their pickup. They said they drove the road everyday for entertainment and welcomed us to Barrow. We stick out like sore thumbs here, and everyone knows you are a tourist or scientist, but they are all nice. We went back to the hotel at about 10:00. I was in shock, it was so bright outside, it felt like 11:00 am! Anyway, I took a hot bath and went to bed.
Today:
Today we got up at a leasurely hour and went into the lab. After a good night rest, I am still completely exhausted. We each have a computer at our workstation and we cleaned the place up. I found a kite in one of the drawers and put it together. The wind was perfect! My praying mantis kite hovered proudly over the research station :) I have been blogging since then. Sorry, folks, I know it isn't as exciting.
We are arriving to Barrow at a very special time, which the natives call SIKUGVIK, which is Inupiat for "Ice Breaking Time". The Arctic ice shelf is beginning to crack and break, and the snow is beginning to melt. Another researcher we met today said that we would experience winter, spring and summer in the span of about 2 weeks. We are going to take the snowmobile out later this week before all of the snow melts.
This is a picture of my workstation -------->
I am enjoying the time here and am remaining as open as I can to experience it. I am tired and fatigued, but the people I work with are all great, and I am revived by their energy and whole experience. The people and Inupiats are some of the nicest I have met and are very warm and friendly. I find that although this place may look gloomy, the life and spirit that flows through the town in its people is warm and alive. I am going to enjoy Barrow.
3 comments:
Sounds like lots of light!
How about a few pics...
Amers,
Sounds like it is going to be such an adventure. You are the perfect person for the job. How does whale taste?
Love ya,
P.A.
Hello,nice post thanks for sharing?. I just joined and I am going to catch up by reading for a while. I hope I can join in soon.
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